Tomahawk Throwing
People familiar with tomahawks and their use
often refer to them as "hawks".
Similarly, terms like pipe-tomahawk have been
shortened to pipe-hawk.
Tomahawk target frames are usually called
hawk-boards or hawk-blocks.
often refer to them as "hawks".
Similarly, terms like pipe-tomahawk have been
shortened to pipe-hawk.
Tomahawk target frames are usually called
hawk-boards or hawk-blocks.
The average tomahawk has a blade up to 4 inches wide at the cutting edge and a handle from 14 to 20 inches long. (See Fig. 1)
Weights run from half a pound to three pounds. The average throwing hawk weighs a little less than two pounds. A forged blade
is preferred as it can be readily sharpened with a file and will take considerable abuse without breaking. Handles, however, are
not as forgiving and should be considered, at least to some extent, expendable items. This is especially true during the learning
period. The sides of the handle should be thinner. This helps in holding the hawk straight and in grasping it the same way every
time. The handles on most good quality hawks are a drive fit down through the eye of the blade. The handle, therefore, should
also be tapered to some degree. Some hawks are drilled and a pin is driven through the eye of the blade and the handle. This
often tends to weaken the handle and encourage splitting. The best way to install a handle to a blade is to make sure the wood of
the handle is as dry as possible when they are driven together. Normal moisture will cause the wood to swell slightly to make the
fit all the more snug. The blade does tend to slide down the handle from time to time through usage. This usually occurs when
the handle end of the hawk strikes the target first. When this happens, merely drive the blade back on the handle until it is snug.
Weights run from half a pound to three pounds. The average throwing hawk weighs a little less than two pounds. A forged blade
is preferred as it can be readily sharpened with a file and will take considerable abuse without breaking. Handles, however, are
not as forgiving and should be considered, at least to some extent, expendable items. This is especially true during the learning
period. The sides of the handle should be thinner. This helps in holding the hawk straight and in grasping it the same way every
time. The handles on most good quality hawks are a drive fit down through the eye of the blade. The handle, therefore, should
also be tapered to some degree. Some hawks are drilled and a pin is driven through the eye of the blade and the handle. This
often tends to weaken the handle and encourage splitting. The best way to install a handle to a blade is to make sure the wood of
the handle is as dry as possible when they are driven together. Normal moisture will cause the wood to swell slightly to make the
fit all the more snug. The blade does tend to slide down the handle from time to time through usage. This usually occurs when
the handle end of the hawk strikes the target first. When this happens, merely drive the blade back on the handle until it is snug.
| It is strongly recommended that if one happens to be fortunate enough to own a good pipe-hawk or other ceremonial type hawk, he refrain from throwing it for fear of damaging the frail, hollow or decorative handle. |
Since most hawk throwing is done at a minimum distance of 12 feet, measure off that distance from a suitable target and then
take one full step back. Or, as a general rule, take 7 to 71/2 steps from the target. Mark your spot, this is where you want to
release from.
take one full step back. Or, as a general rule, take 7 to 71/2 steps from the target. Mark your spot, this is where you want to
release from.
Stance
The suggested stance is feet comfortable side by side. The weight should be shifted to the right foot, assuming you're right
handed, just before throwing. At the same time as the swing of the throwing arm, step forward with the left leg. The action of the
feet is not unfamiliar to that of a man throwing a ball. Some people find it more natural to reverse the footwork and step forward
with the right leg. Choose whichever is more comfortable and natural to you.
The suggested stance is feet comfortable side by side. The weight should be shifted to the right foot, assuming you're right
handed, just before throwing. At the same time as the swing of the throwing arm, step forward with the left leg. The action of the
feet is not unfamiliar to that of a man throwing a ball. Some people find it more natural to reverse the footwork and step forward
with the right leg. Choose whichever is more comfortable and natural to you.
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Grip and Release
Take hold of your tomahawk as you would hold a tack hammer. The thumb should be at the side of the handle while the fingers
are wrapped around the handle. (See Fig. 2) Point the hawk, cutting edge down, and the throwing arm fully extended towards the
target. The throwing arm is then raised over the shoulder without fully bending the elbow. When the arm is brought down to a
near horizontal position, (see Fig. 3) the fingers are opened for the release. At the moment of release, when the fingers are
opened, the position of the hand is similar to the appearance of a hand being offered in a handshake. Be careful not to twist the
wrist as this will make the hawk go somewhat sideways. Use mostly arm motion and a minimum of wrist action. Don't try to
throw too hard. The average hawk, if sharp, will almost stick of it's own weight. Power, speed and more important, accuracy will
come with time and practice.
Take hold of your tomahawk as you would hold a tack hammer. The thumb should be at the side of the handle while the fingers
are wrapped around the handle. (See Fig. 2) Point the hawk, cutting edge down, and the throwing arm fully extended towards the
target. The throwing arm is then raised over the shoulder without fully bending the elbow. When the arm is brought down to a
near horizontal position, (see Fig. 3) the fingers are opened for the release. At the moment of release, when the fingers are
opened, the position of the hand is similar to the appearance of a hand being offered in a handshake. Be careful not to twist the
wrist as this will make the hawk go somewhat sideways. Use mostly arm motion and a minimum of wrist action. Don't try to
throw too hard. The average hawk, if sharp, will almost stick of it's own weight. Power, speed and more important, accuracy will
come with time and practice.
Fig. 4a
Fig. 4
Making the Hawk Stick
The most practical hawk is single edged. (see Fig. 4). Even if you're using a hawk with a spike, (see Fig. 4a) we're only
concerned with making the cutting edge stick in the target. If after throwing your hawk, the first dozen times, you can't get it to hit
the target the exact same stick, notice what part of the head of the hawk hits first, you are probably using too much wrist action.
Try again releasing a little earlier and controlling your wrist action more. If the handle hits first, throw again in exactly the same
way except back up six inches to a foot at a time until you get the "blade" in the block. Once you get your distance, measure it and
pace it off. Remember that distance. is your "standard" throwing distance. Practice at that distance until you can consistently get
at least ten throws in a row to stick in the block. Now you'll be looking for accuracy. From this point on it's practice and more
practice.
The most practical hawk is single edged. (see Fig. 4). Even if you're using a hawk with a spike, (see Fig. 4a) we're only
concerned with making the cutting edge stick in the target. If after throwing your hawk, the first dozen times, you can't get it to hit
the target the exact same stick, notice what part of the head of the hawk hits first, you are probably using too much wrist action.
Try again releasing a little earlier and controlling your wrist action more. If the handle hits first, throw again in exactly the same
way except back up six inches to a foot at a time until you get the "blade" in the block. Once you get your distance, measure it and
pace it off. Remember that distance. is your "standard" throwing distance. Practice at that distance until you can consistently get
at least ten throws in a row to stick in the block. Now you'll be looking for accuracy. From this point on it's practice and more
practice.
Variations
Once you get your "standard" throw down pat, you will want to experiment with variations of the basic throw. The standard throw
causes the tomahawk to make one full revolution. By backing up about 9 or so feet, you can get the hawk to make two full turns
and stick. By backing up about 5 feet from your standard distance, and holding the hawk cutting edge up, you can get your hawk
to make one and a half turns and stick with the handle pointing up. As with your standard throw, you will have to experiment a bit
to find your particular proper distances. As you get more and more proficient through practice, you will find that your distances no
longer need be so exact as you will have developed better control of your throwing technique. Remember, it is more important to
be very good at one distance than to be just fair at many distances.
Once you get your "standard" throw down pat, you will want to experiment with variations of the basic throw. The standard throw
causes the tomahawk to make one full revolution. By backing up about 9 or so feet, you can get the hawk to make two full turns
and stick. By backing up about 5 feet from your standard distance, and holding the hawk cutting edge up, you can get your hawk
to make one and a half turns and stick with the handle pointing up. As with your standard throw, you will have to experiment a bit
to find your particular proper distances. As you get more and more proficient through practice, you will find that your distances no
longer need be so exact as you will have developed better control of your throwing technique. Remember, it is more important to
be very good at one distance than to be just fair at many distances.
Handles
Should replacement of a broken or split handle be necessary the choice of wood should be Hickory or Ash, in that order. Both
woods are strong and springy. Oak and Birch are strong enough but don't have the "give" that is necessary for a good hawk
handle. Maple makes a good decorative and ceremonial handle. Soft woods should be avoided except for temporary emergency
purposes. The grain of the wood should run from poll to blade. The cross-section of the handle at the eye of the hawk should be
tear-drop shaped so that it fits snugly into the eye of the hawk. (See Fig. 5) The cross-section at the bottom should be
egg-shaped with the smaller diameter at the front. (See Fig. 6) This shape is conducive to a strong and comfortable handle. The
length can run from 14 to 20 inches depending on the size of the head. The taper should be very gradual from top to bottom.
Don't make your handle too smooth, this tends to make the handle slippery and hard to handle in wet weather. By the same
token, don't leave it so rough as to get splinters in your hand. A good oil stain is all that is necessary to finish a functional
tomahawk.
Should replacement of a broken or split handle be necessary the choice of wood should be Hickory or Ash, in that order. Both
woods are strong and springy. Oak and Birch are strong enough but don't have the "give" that is necessary for a good hawk
handle. Maple makes a good decorative and ceremonial handle. Soft woods should be avoided except for temporary emergency
purposes. The grain of the wood should run from poll to blade. The cross-section of the handle at the eye of the hawk should be
tear-drop shaped so that it fits snugly into the eye of the hawk. (See Fig. 5) The cross-section at the bottom should be
egg-shaped with the smaller diameter at the front. (See Fig. 6) This shape is conducive to a strong and comfortable handle. The
length can run from 14 to 20 inches depending on the size of the head. The taper should be very gradual from top to bottom.
Don't make your handle too smooth, this tends to make the handle slippery and hard to handle in wet weather. By the same
token, don't leave it so rough as to get splinters in your hand. A good oil stain is all that is necessary to finish a functional
tomahawk.
Fig. 6
Fig. 5
Uses
The type hawk most commonly used is the forged type offered on the
market as the "squaw-hawk". It has a 15 inch handle and a total weight
of 3/4 to one pound.
This hawk, because of its weight and size is an excellent one to carry. It is
nowhere near as cumbersome as the larger ones and it can be thrown all
day without "throwing your arm out".
The type hawk most commonly used is the forged type offered on the
market as the "squaw-hawk". It has a 15 inch handle and a total weight
of 3/4 to one pound.
This hawk, because of its weight and size is an excellent one to carry. It is
nowhere near as cumbersome as the larger ones and it can be thrown all
day without "throwing your arm out".
Fig. 7
As a man is familiar with the possibilities of his rifle, so should he be familiar with the possibilities of his tomahawk. It is a tool
and he should seek as many uses as he can for it. If kept properly sharpened, one can easily field dress and skin a big game
animal with a hawk. The pelvic bone problem is solved with a flip of the wrist. In skinning, a natural for the hawk, the poll is held
in the hand with the handle sticking out on side or the other. (See Fig. 7) It's obvious use as a hatchet for chopping or splitting
wood needs no explanation. The poll can be used, to some degree, as a hammer. My hawk poll is kept somewhat flat for that
purpose. If you have a spike-hawk, you have a built-in pick. Of course, any hawk can be used as a digging tool in an emergency.
Hawks have even been used as paddles. The many uses of the tomahawk are limited only to the user's imagination.
and he should seek as many uses as he can for it. If kept properly sharpened, one can easily field dress and skin a big game
animal with a hawk. The pelvic bone problem is solved with a flip of the wrist. In skinning, a natural for the hawk, the poll is held
in the hand with the handle sticking out on side or the other. (See Fig. 7) It's obvious use as a hatchet for chopping or splitting
wood needs no explanation. The poll can be used, to some degree, as a hammer. My hawk poll is kept somewhat flat for that
purpose. If you have a spike-hawk, you have a built-in pick. Of course, any hawk can be used as a digging tool in an emergency.
Hawks have even been used as paddles. The many uses of the tomahawk are limited only to the user's imagination.
Targets
A slice of soft wood one foot or more in diameter
and 4 inches or so thick makes an excellent
hawk-board. Bore 3 holes as illustrated to make
a tripod stand. Use 2 inch diameter legs. The
center of the slice should be about 4 feet from
the ground. (see Fig. 8). Or hang by a cable or
STRONG rope from tree branches or a frame
(see Fig. 8a).
A slice of soft wood one foot or more in diameter
and 4 inches or so thick makes an excellent
hawk-board. Bore 3 holes as illustrated to make
a tripod stand. Use 2 inch diameter legs. The
center of the slice should be about 4 feet from
the ground. (see Fig. 8). Or hang by a cable or
STRONG rope from tree branches or a frame
(see Fig. 8a).
Fig. 8
Fig. 8a
A soft wood log one foot or so in diameter and six or
seven feet long makes a good target also.
The log should be buried a foot or so deep. The front
should be blazed to form a flat target area.
The log can be braced, if necessary.(see Fig. 9)
seven feet long makes a good target also.
The log should be buried a foot or so deep. The front
should be blazed to form a flat target area.
The log can be braced, if necessary.(see Fig. 9)
Fig. 9
A more formal target can be made by using 6 x 6's.
Two 4 footers and two 8 footers are bolted together using half
inch threaded rod.
The rod ends are counter bored so that no metal is exposed.
The long pieces are buried about 2 feet deep.(see Fig. 10)
Two 4 footers and two 8 footers are bolted together using half
inch threaded rod.
The rod ends are counter bored so that no metal is exposed.
The long pieces are buried about 2 feet deep.(see Fig. 10)
Fig. 10
| Targets for an informal match or for practice purposes can be anything from a playing card to a piece of paper or bark stuck in the log. Scoring can be improvised accordingly. |
| It is considered a bad practice to throw at a live tree, as the cuts in the tree can cause a heavy sap loss which may kill the tree. |
Fig. 1