Knife Throwing
First of all, if your only knife is an original, authentic Bowie type, or a big "Arkansas
Toothpick" which you have carefully made for yourself, don't risk throwing it.
Riveted staghorn or bone handles and slim brass guards do not fare well under
repeated impact into wood. If your knife was not specifically made for throwing, get
or make one which has the right features.
Toothpick" which you have carefully made for yourself, don't risk throwing it.
Riveted staghorn or bone handles and slim brass guards do not fare well under
repeated impact into wood. If your knife was not specifically made for throwing, get
or make one which has the right features.
The blade should be at least 1/4 inch thick at the base and should be twice as long as the handle. The
blade tang should pass all the way through the handle and if possible should also be of one piece with
the helt cross-piece. Whether part of the blade or separate, the cross-piece should project less than the
usual type. The less it sticks out, the less chance of it becoming bent or broken. Most true throwing
knives have no cross piece at all. Bone or staghorn is fairly tough for handles, but rivets tend to loosen
and even these sturdy materials may split after much throwing. If bone or staghorn is used, the best
method of attachment is a hole drilled lengthwise for a narrowed tang, the tang threaded at the pommel
for a nut which can be tightened as necessary when it loosens. Nylon and fiberglass are ideal handle
materials and are almost indestructible. Their modern appearance can be somewhat masked by
staining a darker color.
blade tang should pass all the way through the handle and if possible should also be of one piece with
the helt cross-piece. Whether part of the blade or separate, the cross-piece should project less than the
usual type. The less it sticks out, the less chance of it becoming bent or broken. Most true throwing
knives have no cross piece at all. Bone or staghorn is fairly tough for handles, but rivets tend to loosen
and even these sturdy materials may split after much throwing. If bone or staghorn is used, the best
method of attachment is a hole drilled lengthwise for a narrowed tang, the tang threaded at the pommel
for a nut which can be tightened as necessary when it loosens. Nylon and fiberglass are ideal handle
materials and are almost indestructible. Their modern appearance can be somewhat masked by
staining a darker color.
The blade may be any shape, but for a forceful throw must not be double-edged, a fact which will be
obvious when we get to the proper throwing grip.
Right now, let's lay to rest an old myth,. You have no doubt seen some self-styled "expert" balance a
knife across his finger at the helt and pronounce it "perfect" for throwing. This, to put it mildly, is a lot of
bull! A knife which will balance in this way is actually more difficult to control. The best throwing knife has
a blade which is heavier than the handle, or vice versa. It doesn't really matter which as long as one end
is heavier.
The proper throwing grip is with the blunt edge toward the palm, the point lying near the base of the
thumb, the thumb lying flat on the blade, pointing toward the helt. The fingertips grip in a row on the
opposite flat of the blade. If this sounds confusing, consult illustrations # 1 and 2.
obvious when we get to the proper throwing grip.
Right now, let's lay to rest an old myth,. You have no doubt seen some self-styled "expert" balance a
knife across his finger at the helt and pronounce it "perfect" for throwing. This, to put it mildly, is a lot of
bull! A knife which will balance in this way is actually more difficult to control. The best throwing knife has
a blade which is heavier than the handle, or vice versa. It doesn't really matter which as long as one end
is heavier.
The proper throwing grip is with the blunt edge toward the palm, the point lying near the base of the
thumb, the thumb lying flat on the blade, pointing toward the helt. The fingertips grip in a row on the
opposite flat of the blade. If this sounds confusing, consult illustrations # 1 and 2.
Holding the knife by its point with thumb and forefinger, a grip that is necessary with double-edged
blades for obvious reasons (See illustration #3), results in a total lack of power for all but the heaviest
knives. In a serious situation a light knife thrown like this might make an opponent mad enough to really
hurt you!
We have all seen fantastic long-distance throws in scenes from films and on television. These, of
course, are another myth. Around fifteen feet would be the maximum range for good control. Beyond this,
point first impact is a matter of luck. Also, because of air resistance and the necessary adjustment in
throwing force for control, much power is lost at the longer ranges.
blades for obvious reasons (See illustration #3), results in a total lack of power for all but the heaviest
knives. In a serious situation a light knife thrown like this might make an opponent mad enough to really
hurt you!
We have all seen fantastic long-distance throws in scenes from films and on television. These, of
course, are another myth. Around fifteen feet would be the maximum range for good control. Beyond this,
point first impact is a matter of luck. Also, because of air resistance and the necessary adjustment in
throwing force for control, much power is lost at the longer ranges.
Between you and the target, a knife should make exactly one half turn. This half-turn is controlled by two
factors: Angle of release and force of throw. Balancing these two elements is the thing that will require
the most practice. At maximum range the release angle should actually be no angle at all, the knife
horizontal, handle pointed straight at the target. As the distance decreases, the angle should increase.
At very close range, the handle at release point might be vertical or perhaps actually pointing toward the
rear. See illustrations #4,5,& 6.
factors: Angle of release and force of throw. Balancing these two elements is the thing that will require
the most practice. At maximum range the release angle should actually be no angle at all, the knife
horizontal, handle pointed straight at the target. As the distance decreases, the angle should increase.
At very close range, the handle at release point might be vertical or perhaps actually pointing toward the
rear. See illustrations #4,5,& 6.
You might think that the horizontal release would give a quicker turn-over, since the elevated angle
requires 1/4 to 1/2 more turn, but it doesn't work out that way for one good reason: Air resistance. With
the horizontal release there is very little of it and the knife travels handle-first for a longer distance before
starting to turn. With the angled release both the air resistance and the wrist action help to start the turn
earlier.
requires 1/4 to 1/2 more turn, but it doesn't work out that way for one good reason: Air resistance. With
the horizontal release there is very little of it and the knife travels handle-first for a longer distance before
starting to turn. With the angled release both the air resistance and the wrist action help to start the turn
earlier.
Force of throw also has a direct effect on the turn-over, in an obvious manner. The shorter time a knife is
in the air, the less time to turn. Therefore a powerful throw at very close range is difficult to achieve. I
prefer to always throw with as much force as possible and to adjust the release angle to the distance.
in the air, the less time to turn. Therefore a powerful throw at very close range is difficult to achieve. I
prefer to always throw with as much force as possible and to adjust the release angle to the distance.
Quite a bit of body action is necessary for a powerful throw. Assuming that you are right-handed, start
with your weight on the right foot, arm drawn-back past the right ear, the knife vertical, handle pointed
downward. While snapping the arm forward to a straight, extended position, take a long step with the left
leg toward the target, leaning forward and transferring the weight to the left leg. Let the throwing arm
"follow through", the hand lightly striking the left leg near the knee. See illustrations # 7 & 8.
with your weight on the right foot, arm drawn-back past the right ear, the knife vertical, handle pointed
downward. While snapping the arm forward to a straight, extended position, take a long step with the left
leg toward the target, leaning forward and transferring the weight to the left leg. Let the throwing arm
"follow through", the hand lightly striking the left leg near the knee. See illustrations # 7 & 8.
| Unfortunately, there are no "tricks" that can be passed along which will make you an instant expert at knife throwing. That critical balance between release angle and throwing force can only be attained by persistent practice with a suitable knife. Once you have mastered a particular knife, don't assume that you can do as well with any other knife. Your basic skill will be an advantage, but you'll find that each knife has its own throwing characteristics. Well, good luck and do not be discouraged if your first few dozen throws land handle first! Keep trying. |
Two views of the proper grip for throwing a single-edged knife:
1. The full length of the thumb,
2. Three fingers on the blade.
3. The proper grip for throwing a double-edged knife.
With this hold, not as much power can be delivered.
With this hold, not as much power can be delivered.
The three release points-
4. Is close range. Released
from this angle, turn-over
will occur more rapidly.
5. Is medium range.
6. Long-range release point. With knife released horizontally, it will
travel for some distance handle first before starting turn-over.
This is also the maximum power throw.
travel for some distance handle first before starting turn-over.
This is also the maximum power throw.
7. Body and arm position
at moment of release.
8. Follow through. With a hard throw,
hand should end by lightly striking
the left knee.
